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Electronics
The boat came with a 35 lb CQR anchor with 250' of 5/16" ACCO high-test all-chain rode controlled by a Lofrans 1000-watt Cayman 88 electric windlass. A 220' length of 1/2" 3-strand secondary anchor rode was also on board. We replaced the 5/16" chain as the existing chain had a few rusty links. We built a chain snubber with two lengths of 1/2" 3-strand nylon, an ABI chain grabber (part #1044SS) and 1/2" bow eyes. We added 50' of 5/16" high-test chain plus 350' of 5/16" New England Megabraid as our secondary anchor rode and use the previous secondary rode for our stern anchor. We upsized our primary anchor to a 45 lb CQR and still carry the 35 lb CQR as our secondary anchor. We added a 22 lb high-strength Danforth on rail mounts for our stern anchor and also carry a Fortress FX-16 collapsible anchor as a spare. Report Card: 10/03: We added stainless rub strakes to the bow to protect the varnish from the snubber. However, we found that when we switched to ablative bottom paint this year, the snubber promptly removed the paint from the bow. We switched back to a single line snubber this year and other than a bad lead that we need to provide chafe protection from, we've been happy with this setup. When we switch back to hard bottom paint, we'll switch back to the two line snubber. 07/07: With half of our anchor chain rather rusty, we treated
Felicity to a new arsenal of 5/16" high-test chain.
The boat came with a Magma barbeque grill attached to the stern rail with a regulator for portable propane bottles. It also came with a hose to lead directly from our large propane bottles to the grill. Report Card: 4/02: Added a tee after our solenoid and attached a
shut-off valve, 10' of propane hose and a low-pressure regulator. This
allows us to use our primary propane bottles safely.
We replaced the mainsail cover and added staysail and trysail storage bags. We had a cockpit awning and boat awning made in Seattle as well as port covers and lee cloths for the main salon. The dodger was only a four years old and in good condition. Report Card: 12/02: We replaced the dodger and boat awning and added a
semi-permanent bimini and foredeck awning. The work was all done by the
Boat Cover Company
in Auckland. Our new dodger/bimini is a virtual copy of the Trish
Schattauer design on Layla. The awnings
were designed by the vendor as we had seen their work on larger boats
and were quite impressed. All of the work is of quite good quality
though it has taken more than nine months to complete in between all
their mega yacht work (due to the America's Cup).
We added a Scandvik hot/cold pressure water control and retractable shower head in the cockpit before leaving San Diego. Report Card:
We replaced the v-berth cushion with a custom Handcraft Mattress foam mattress and custom-fitted sheets. The quarter berth cushion was replaced with a short nav seat cushion to increase storage. The rest of the cushions are original. Report Card: 12/02: Yeah! We have new cushions in the main salon. The
Boat Cover Company
in Auckland made them for us using a beige ultrasuede with high-quality
Elephant foam that should last us a good while. We're not sure we did
the right thing getting a light color for our cushions, but the
ultrasuede should at least clean well.
We didn't put much thought into what dinghy or engine to carry with us. We knew we wanted a Hypalon dinghy that could store small and Yamaha outboards seemed to have a good reputation among cruisers. With that knowledge in hand we descended on a boat show and came away with a 9' 6" Achilles with an inflatable floor, a Yamaha 5hp 2-stroke outboard and a Nova Lift I outboard motor lift. Report Card: The advice we'd give to future cruisers is to buy the biggest and fastest dinghy you can afford and also be able to store on board. Bigger tube size keeps you drier. A RIB is preferable for many reasons if you have room to store it. 2-stroke engines are much easier to find parts for and service than 4-strokes. Hypalon lasts the longest in the sun but covers can be made from Sunbrella to protect any dinghy. Yamahas seem to be the most popular among locals but you see all the popular brands out here. Buy the biggest engine that the dinghy you choose supports and carry spare parts including a prop, impeller, spark plugs, fuel filters and lower unit oil. 3/03: We purchased an 8hp Yamaha 2-stroke short-shaft outboard after servicing our 5hp. The 8hp is a two cylinder and is smoother running - it should also give us the power we need to plane. The dinghy is in for repair right now - in addition to the two rings and oar locks, the floor is getting some glue to hold the piece of hypalon on that surrounds the keel valve. 5/03: Discovered that the Achilles pressure gauge had corroded from the inside out. Upon removing the gauge, the plastic disintegrated as well. We'll pay more attention to keep it out of the UV and to rinse thoroughly with fresh water if it gets salt water on it. 8/03: The inflatable floor developed two leaks. One on the bottom where a nail from the dock found its way on board and the other around the fuel tank tie-down. We ran out of glue for Hypalon and have followed the advise of others and used super glue. Hopefully that will hold until Australia! 10/03: The super glue worked almost too well but
unfortunately, I did the patch wrong. After expending many calories
pulling off the original tie-down and my super-glued patch, I replaced
the whole thing with a single large patch using PVC glue we found in
Port Vila. This has held for the rest of the season, though with a
couple of other very small leaks only at the highest pressure, I think
we will replace the floor.
We carry six 6-volt Trojan J250 lead-acid batteries wired in parallel and series to achieve a single 750-amp 12-volt house bank. Three of the batteries are stored under the quarter-berth and three are stored on a custom shelf behind the engine and under the steering pedestal. One 12-volt 100-amp lead-acid engine starting battery is stored in the port-side lazarette and is connected to our battery switch as bank #2. Our primary charging system when cruising is a Balmar 100-amp alternator and is supplemented by two 55-watt Siemens solar panels on sunny days and an Aquair 100 towing generator on passages (convertible to wind generator at anchor). For AC power and dockside charging we use a Heart Interface 1000-watt inverter. The entire system is managed by a Heart Interface Link 2000-R battery monitor which controls the inverter, battery charger and Heart alternator regulator. In New Zealand, we added a portable transformer from TSL to convert dockside power to 110v. This transformer can be used throughout the rest of the world by changing the input plug. Report Card: We should have thought ahead and wired in support for 220-240v power during the refit. Doing it now seems overwhelming as we'd have to offload a lot of gear to gain access to the places we'd install wiring, switches and the transformer. We'll consider doing this if we offload the boat someday for other reasons. 8/03: The batteries and/or the battery monitoring system is showing its age as the amp hours consumed does not appear to be tracking correctly any more. We are planning on replacing the batteries in Australia and will look to install an identical set as we've been happy with their performance to date. 10/03: For some reason, the batteries are now performing as they used to. They only started acting weird after we did a 2.5 hour equalization in Auckland (our first since leaving Seattle). When we're reconnected to shore power, we'll run a load test to determine current capacity. Also, to update the note above, we're still using the new spare alternator we installed in Papeete without any problems. We also had the original Balmar repaired in Auckland and now carry that as our spare. 07/07: At nearly ten years of age, our Trojans served us well,
but were due for replacement. All house batteries were replaced with new
Trojans and we also replaced our starting battery.
The boat came with basic but outdated electronics including depth, speed, VHF, Loran, radar and a first-generation GPS. We eventually replaced all of the electronics (except the autopilot - see Self Steering) after replacing the failing Furuno radar in Mexico. The following electronics are currently in use:
In addition, we carry a Toshiba Tecra 8100 laptop with electronic charting software and a backup Dell Inspiron 3800 laptop. We have a Samsung 17" LCD monitor/TV for watching DVDs from the laptop. For music we have an Alpine in-dash AM/FM/CD player with a 6-disc CD changer. Report Card: Our Toshiba has been great and after expensive repairs from a saltwater dousing continues to work fine. We feel that Toshiba service and warranty repair is very good. We bought the Dell as a spare after our saltwater experience with the Toshiba, as email is our primary means of keeping in touch with family and friends. The Dell has been the worst laptop we've ever worked with and service has been a nightmare. We bought the LCD panel to watch movies as we couldn't both see the laptop screen. We've since found a place to mount the laptop where we can see it fine and the LCD panel doesn't see much use. The Alpine stereo system works well but we wish we knew about European tuning before buying a stereo - we can't receive FM broadcasts outside of North America. MP3s are also big now and it would be nice to have support for that in our stereo. 6/02: Added a permanently mounted docking station in a waterproof locker for our Tecra. We now use the LCD monitor with a Logitech cordless keyboard/mouse. We'll add a smaller 15" LCD as the 17" is proving too large on our small boat. 10/02: Samsung 152T 15" LCD was added for the nav station. 5/03: Discovered that Raytheon provides a "Plus" update for
the RL70 radar control head. This adds MARPA capabilities and HSB2. The
unit needs to be sent to either the UK or US for service though, so
we'll look at doing this from Australia. After much thought and debate,
we're also thinking of switching to C-MAP charts on the radar as our
primary charts on board. However, since this season is less than six
months long and we don't know how long we'll stay in Australia, we'll
take a fresh look at technology changes before leaving from there.
A freshwater-cooled Yanmar 3GM30F diesel engine came with the boat. The standard 55-amp Hitachi alternator had been changed to a 100-amp Balmar during the electrical upgrade shortly before our purchase. We replaced the single Racor fuel filter with a more-accessible dual Racor filter system and added a Qwik-Drain oil change pump. The shaft is protected with a Norscot shaft seal. We added an exhaust shut-off valve to close in heavy seas. Report Card: 8/02: We had Power and Marine, the local Yanmar dealer, rebuild the injectors. One proved sticky which could be the reason we had started to get a bit of black smoke recently. They reported that the engine appeared strong. 3/03: We replaced all cooling water hoses due to age and the fact that we were also replacing the hot water heater. While doing this, we found one frost plug which was weeping and needed replacement. The instrument panel also was aging and cracking due to a sticky engine stop cable. The cable and panel were replaced. 8/03: This season we've seen the engine heat up more than
before and as a result, we've lowered the RPM we run at. We've checked
every part of the cooling system and also just replaced the fresh water
cooling pump and thermostat. We'll see if that improves things, but
initial testing at the mooring doesn't appear to show any improvement.
We also learned that our secondary fuel filter should not be left with
standing fuel for long periods of time as the filter clogged rather
quickly when we began to use it.
We removed two oscillating fans that sounded like Cessnas and added six Hella Turbo fans. The Hellas are known for quiet operation and low-amp draw with effective air movement. We added fans in the nav station, galley, two in the main salon and two in the v-berth. Report Card: 4/03: Replaced one v-berth fan and relocated the galley
fan as they were becoming loud. All fans are being fitted with a plug to
enable moving noisy fans to less-used areas before replacing.
The galley is well laid out and needed little. We added a custom spice rack to make spices more accessible and add storage space. The annoying knobs on the bronze port got tennis balls installed (we haven't hit our head there again). A light was added above the stove. We replaced the faucet and fresh/salt manual pump outlets and added a Seagull water filter and dish soap dispenser. Report Card: 3/03: The kitchen faucet developed issues due to crud from the
decomposing hot water heater. Parts were not available in New Zealand
for Price Pfister and as the faucet developed some corrosion issues, we
decided to replace it with a Grohe faucet which is sold worldwide. The
galley sink drains and custom stainless fittings were replaced and a
Sealand T12 waste pump was installed to evacuate the sink overboard.
Sound insulation was also installed to deaden the pump noise.
Our boat came with two stainless steel hatches, manufacturer unknown (possibly Manship). The main salon hatch leaked in heavy rain and the latches on the forward hatch were falling apart. We decided to replace the hatches with Bomar cast Almag (Aluminum /Magnesium) reinforced hatches. The new hatches use thick Lexan and have structural cross-bracing to add support. Report Card:
We outsourced the replacement of the head before leaving and had a Lavac installed. The Lavac uses a standard Henderson MK5 bilge pump and operates on a suction principle thus eliminating the complex pump found on other heads. It is a dead-simple system and long-timer cruisers speak highly of the system. The system is plumbed so that we can use the same pump to empty the holding tank as well. We also installed a Tankwatch I holding tank monitor for the holding tank that lights up a light when the tank is nearly full. Report Card: 3/03: We replaced all the head hose and one Jabsco Y-Valve
that had a broken handle. The Henderson pump was also rebuilt.
Calcification was EVERYWHERE! It was the cause of the Y-Valve failure
and explains why the head has not worked as well recently. We will
develop a vinegar program and follow it from now on. We will also likely
clean the hoses every 12-18 months as routine maintenance and exercise
the Y-Valves at least monthly. We also discovered that the Groco bronze
anti-siphon valve was blocked at the vent. The consumable
rubber/stainless vent insert was both hardened and sealed shut. Cleaning
and lubricating it helped some but due to the rubber being hard, it
didn't close effectively and proceeded to leak seawater. A new
replacement component was installed and it works fine. The bonus is that
the Lavac head seat now does not get wet during flushing.
The boat came with an Espar D3LC forced-air diesel heater that the previous owner had recently installed. We used the heater quite a bit in Seattle. Report Card: 3/03: We used the heater this winter in New Zealand a lot.
Towards the end of winter, the heater started to smoke a little on
startup and shutdown. The glow plug and screen were replaced and the
heater now has no issues with smoke.
All of our navigation lights are standard Aqua Signal. At the masthead we have an Aquasignal tricolor/anchor/strobe combination. The tricolor and anchor lights have been replaced with low-draw LED lights from Deep Creek Design. Report Card: Many cruisers opt for a deck-level anchor light that also lights the cockpit; while this doesn't follow U.S. regulations, it does help visibility in an anchorage and a lighted cockpit adds extra security. 5/03: Discovered during our pre-passage check that the port bow light was not working due to the inside components being corroded away. The original bronze screws were stripped and the light needed to be replaced. The new Series 25 lights have stainless screws. 6/03: We found that our tri-color light casing was coming
apart and the anchor light was dimming. Both were returned for service
and evidently will be repaired with charge under the five-year warranty.
We replaced the original fixed 3-blade prop with a reversible, feathering 3-blade 17" Max-Prop from PYI in the hope that we could back the boat up easier as well as increase sailing performance. Report Card: 3/03: Greased the prop as normal maintenance. After several consultations with PYI, a local prop shop and Bob Perry, we decided against cutting our prop down in size. We'll consider this again if and when we repower. Note that greasing the prop significantly reduced vibration that had appeared late in our previous cruising season. 8/03: The anti-fouling spray that was applied in March continues to work great. We still have no growth on our prop even after several months in the tropics. I believe the name of this professionally applied product is "Prop Speed." 10/03: The Prop Speed applicant is still working great and we only had minor growth on the edges of the prop blades. It also appears that this applicant electrically isolates the prop from the seawater as our zinc is now lasting much longer. 04/07: Greased the prop when we hauled out for bottom paint,
waxing, and stainless polishing.
We carry the original Adler-Barbour 12v refrigeration that had been on the boat for twelve years. It worked great in Seattle and was efficient but we wondered if it would be over-taxed in tropical climates and consume a lot more power. The compressor is stored in the lazarette and we have a vertical evaporator plate that provides a small freezer section. Report Card: 5/03: Replaced the rubber seal under the ice box lids. Also installed lid hinges. 8/03: The fridge packed it in. After several tests, we
concluded that the compressor had failed. We initially were going to go
without refrigeration until Australia, but then figured we could replace
it fast enough that it wouldn't be too much hassle. After some quick
research and discussions with other cruisers we replaced the until with
the Adler Barbour Super Cold Machine with the larger vertical evaporator
bin. We will look to add the plumbing for the water cooled condenser in
the future and are using only the air cooled one right now. With the
larger evaporator, the unit draws slightly more amps. When we make it to
Australia, we'll do some power tests and report the results here. We'll
also explore air ducting and water cooling options more.
Note that we have found that the new Super Cold Machine introduces
noise into our electrical system when it is running. This interferes
with weatherfax reception and SSB reception. If any readers have
successfully dealt with this issue, please write us and let us know what
you've done. For now, we just turn it off for the SSB and hope we
remember to turn it back on.
The boat came to us with original standing rigging (including a Furlex furler for the jib and a Harken furler for the staysail) and well-used running rigging. We decided to do a complete overhaul of the rigging in anticipation of a circumnavigation. Practically all of our purchases were made through Rigging Only and they provided excellent service with extremely competitive prices. We updated the standing rigging extensively, including:
We completely replaced the running rigging with New England Ropes line. We chose Sta-Set for jib lines, Sta-Set X for main sheet and spinnaker halyard, and V-100 for main and jib halyards. Report Card: Removing the staysail furler was also a potential mistake. We don't use the staysail as much as we did before and the bag sometimes interferes with anchoring. But then again, we haven't been in conditions yet that warrant the use of the storm staysail. 5/03: Installed new sheaves in the center traveler car.
Original replacements for Nicro Fico are available from
Rig Rite. We also
have determined that the Navtec has an issue maintaining moderate
pressure for more than 5-10 days (depending on starting pressure). As
there is no external fluid leakage, we figure it might be a leak in the
high/low pressure control valve. The NZ Navtec rep would not warranty
the unit as it was purchased in the US so for now, we'll live with it as
the issue is only a minor annoyance.
We took part in Practical Sailor's liferaft testing in January, 2000 and based on that experience purchased a valise-packed Winslow Ocean Rescue liferaft for superior quality, light weight and excellent survival pack contents. We carry a 36" Galerider drogue, a 15' Paratech sea anchor and a 12' BUORD parachute that has been reinforced by Victor Shane for use as a sea anchor. Our ditch kit is contained in a red floating case from Landfall Navigation. Our standard flare kit has been augmented with Pains Wessex parachute flares. A manually-deployed NAT 406 GPIRB is stored below the nav station and an ACR 406 EPIRB is stored in the liferaft. We've installed a MOM-8A man overboard module and a Lifesling on the stern rail. Aloft we carry both Blipper and Mobri radar reflectors and reflective tape applied to both sides of the top of the mast. We use high-strength webbing for our side-deck jackliines. Report Card: Fortunately, we can't comment on any personal experience with the rest of our safety gear. After many discussions with cruisers who have made different decisions, we're still happy with the choices we've made. Our only disappointment is that Winslow was to have secured a New Zealand service center within six months of our purchase - 18 months later this is still work in progress which means shipping our raft back to Florida for servicing (not cheap). 10/02: Winslow picked up the tab for shipping our liferaft to Adelaide, Australia for service at CHC Helicopters. Tony Hall, the primary contact at CHC, was a joy to work with and I have no doubt the job was done professionally. Kudus to Winslow for keeping their promise - we hope to see them offer a more comprehensive service network over the next couple of years as this is the only thing that holds us back from recommending them wholly to future cruisers. 5/03: Decided to purchase new webbing jack lines instead of
switching to lifeline cable. We may later decide to move to cable, but
Safety at Sea in Auckland gave us some good ideas to correct our webbing
attachment. Essentially, we'll connect the forward end to a cleat using
the provided loop through the cleat and back over - like a dock line.
The aft end has a D-ring which we'll connect to a cleat using
several rounds of 3mm Spectra line secured with a "Monitor" knot.
The sails were the original Neil Pryde sails supplied with the boat. The mainsail was in below average condition and the jib and staysail were in above average condition. We could have added stitching to the jibs and made do with them for a season or two. But our plans included covering more than 10,000 miles in our first 18 months of cruising, much of this far away from quality sail makers. We made the very expensive decision to replace the full sail inventory with local high-quality sail maker Schattauer Sails. Our new sails should last us an estimated seven years of active cruising. Our inventory includes:
Report Card: 3/03: The sails have some mildew that has accumulated from sitting too long at the dock. All the canvas cover snaps had to be lubricated to get to the sails (we know, we should be sailing more!). We'll look into having the sails professionally cleaned in Australia. 10/03: Here are some further thoughts regarding a spinnaker.
First, for a double-handed crew, leaving the spinnaker up at night is
often not a viable option in anything but settled light weather. In our
experience crossing the Pacific, this has happened only once. In many
(but not all) of our discussions with fellow cruisers, the female in the
crew would not be comfortable taking the spinnaker down on the foredeck
at night in a squall. Second, the wind ranges and sailing angles it is
most usable for have rarely occurred for us and when they do are of
somewhat short duration. At the upper end of the spinnaker wind range,
we find that a poled out yankee and single-reefed main does just as well
and is much easier to reef. Although we have yet to see a Code Zero sail
in use on a cruising boat of less than 40 feet, they seem to make a lot
more sense to us as the sail can be furled from the cockpit in a squall,
the sail (with it's wire luff and removable furling drum) can be stored
below when not on passage, and is usable in a much wider sailing angle.
The boat came with an Autohelm 6000 autopilot with a type-1 linear drive. We chose to keep this system as it seemed like it was sized correctly and it worked fine and provided redundancy. A new Monitor self-steering windvane was also added for long passages where we would be sailing and trying to conserve electrical consumption. Report Card: 3/03: The outside control head for the ST-6000 has a crack and is allowing moisture into the head. This has been repaired with epoxy. A Sunbrella cover was also made to try to reduce UV exposure. 5/03: The Monitor control line has been replaced and extended farther into the cockpit. Placing the control line in a location that is easily accessible by crew makes it much easier at sea. 10/03: One steering line was replaced due to chafe for our
passage between Vanuatu and Australia. We'll replace both lines in
Australia.
The boat came with a Manship pedestal steering system with a backup tiller. The quadrant had minor rust appearing on it which we removed with a wire brush and then applied Rustoleum paint. The steering cable was in good repair but we replaced it anyway and carry the old one as a spare. During replacement, we also found that the clevis pins on one set of pulleys were bronze and had been worn through at least 25%. Those were replaced with stainless clevis pins as the other two pulleys had. The rudder packing was replaced with Teflon packing. Report Card:
We converted our one hanging closet to bulk storage by adding a shelf in the middle. We added "baby lee cloths" to the shelves in the v-berth and quarter-berth. The full quarter-berth cushion was replaced with a navigation seat cushion to maximize storage space in the quarter-berth (aka the Garage). Supports for a dive tank were glassed into the wet locker. Report Card: 5/03: Hinges and latches have been added to settee cabinets
and hinges have been added to the refrigerator lids. We've also
waterproofed the lazarette lids as salt water has entered during
passage. This should have been done in Seattle but we (and several
friends) never thought of this.
Our boat has two stainless water tanks (90 gallons total) located under the salon settees and a cast iron fuel tank (35 gallons) above the keel under the floorboards. We cleaned the water tanks before leaving Seattle and had the fuel tank professionally cleaned. We added VDO tank gauges for each tank. The diesel tank sender is the tube-type from VDO and the water tank senders are a capacitor-driven tube-type (don't remember the manufacturer) which eliminates the problematic float found on most water tank senders. Report Card: 5/03: Cleaned the fuel tanks and found significant buildup of contaminants. Installed new gaskets (Buna-N is referred to as nitrile rubber here in NZ). Several new gaskets have been cut as spares. 10/03: The starboard water tank sender has stopped working. We
will investigate repairing/replacing this in Australia
We added a Flojet washdown pump with both fresh and saltwater supplies. The outlet is by the bowsprit and we have a detachable hose that is connected when we use the pump. Report Card:
We replaced our standard PAR water pump with a high-pressure Flojet pump to reduce noise and increase pressure. Report Card: 9/02: Added a Shurflo pump with inline filter. 3/03: Noise is similar to the Flojet. We've added sound
insulation and have suspended the pump with tie wraps attached to eye
straps. This has decreased sound somewhat.
Before leaving, we debated on the merits of having a watermaker on board. In the end, we installed a Spectra 380c system. This system had only been on the market for a few short years but had developed a reputation for being highly energy efficient and backed by a company that focused on customer support. These two selling points helped us to accept the high price of the system. We chose the larger 380c over the 200c as the only difference is the addition of an extra pump and pump cooling fins and fans. This extra pump provides redundancy as well as extra output when power is not an issue (e.g. when motoring). Report Card: Special mention should be made for PUR as their customers have received excellent support while cruising. PUR systems (as of 2000) are much less efficient but for cruisers looking to supplement on-shore water gathering with a less-expensive watermaker, PUR seems like the way to go. Many cruisers carry PUR watermakers. 5/03: Installed new pump heads that we had received from Spectra in 12/01. This has increased our output back to original specifications. However, it has not significantly changed the salinity of the output. We're seeing 460ppm with one pump running and this was less than 220ppm when new. Still, the water tastes great and we'll see if the salinity numbers improve with use this season and possibly a re-calibration of our meter. 8/03: Our salinity worsened quickly after departing from New
Zealand and the water became undrinkable close to Fiji. Spectra was
initially very helpful in troubleshooting but then became difficult to
work with. On their recommendation, we replaced our feed pumps but that
didn't significantly change performance. We fixed leaking end caps on
the membrane as well. Against their recommendation, we decided to
replace the membrane as well. This has fixed our salinity issue though
production is lower than it should be. With new feed pumps and a new
membrane, the only piece left to change is the Clark Pump. We'll pull
that out and return it to Spectra when we get to Australia and have it
tested/rebuilt before leaving again. |
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